
The sign of Carlsbad Caverns National Park
新墨西哥州之旅的第二天我們計畫遊覽卡爾斯巴德洞窟國家公園(Carlsbad Caverns National Park),當天早上七點半左右由住宿的Alamogordo市出發,沿US 82公路東行,後轉US 285南下,再轉US 62於十一點左右抵達Carlsbad Caverns National Park東邊約七哩左右的小鎮Whites City,這也是我們今晚的住宿地,在此簡單用個餐(僅有一家餐廳和一家雜貨店)便開車進公園。
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
卡爾斯巴德洞窟國家公園(Carlsbad Caverns National Park)是美國的一座國家公園,位於新墨西哥州東南部。公園的特色為卡爾斯巴德洞窟(Carlsbad Caverns ),該公園共包括超過117個洞穴,其中最長的超過120哩,洞穴居住著超過40萬隻墨西哥無尾蝙蝠和其他16個物種的動物,遊客可以通過天然入口徒步進入,也可以通過電梯直接到達755呎(230公尺)的洞穴深處。
該地區最早是在1898年由一位16歲德州出生的小牛仔Jim White首次進入洞窟探險(仍有爭議),然後將洞窟美景公諸於世;1923年12月25日創立為國家保護區(Carlsbad Cave National Monument),至1930年5月14日正式成立為國家公園(Carlsbad Caverns National Park),佔地約46,766.45英畝(189.3平方公里),地底為洞窟,地表則為奇瓦瓦沙漠(Chihuahuan Desert)和響尾蛇泉(Rattlesnake Springs)。
卡爾斯巴德洞窟國家公園有兩條除了公園門票外不必再另外付費的自導式步道,一條是從觀看蝙蝠出洞的看台(Bat Flight Amphitheater)進到地洞底休息區的Natural Entrance Routes,此步道修築於1923年;另一條則是地洞底休息區附近的Big Room;這兩條自導式步道各長約1.25哩(2.0公里)。而其他比較特殊的或是具有歷史意義的洞窟都被列為需要另外付費的導覽行程(Guided Tours),這些需額外付費的導覽行程有King's Palace、Left Hand Tunnel、Lower Cave、Spider Cave、Slaughter Canyon Cave 和 Hall of the White Giant,其中最受遊客關愛的就是King's Palace。
當初發現此洞窟的Jim White曾依鐘乳石的特殊形狀給予一些命名,例如Iceberg Rock、Totem Pole、Witch’s Finger、Giant Dome、Bottomless Pit、Fairyland、Temple of the Sun和Rock of Ages等等,當然也有一些是後來的Park Ranger給與命名的,目前洞窟裡還保留部分命名標示牌在該鐘乳石前供遊客辨認。

Carlsbad Caverns National Park visitor center
參觀注意事項
洞穴內年均溫約在56°F(13°C)左右,帶件薄外套或遇寒衣物是有必要的,穿膠底布鞋,切勿穿涼鞋、拖鞋或皮鞋。除了飲用水外不能攜帶任何食物或飲料,口香糖是絕對禁止的,真想吃喝東西忍著點,下到地洞底休息區時販賣部有得買。自導式步道可攜帶腳架拍照,但付費的導覽行程則不可用腳架拍照。
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Natural Entrance Routes(天然入口路線)
我們由遊客中心右側沿著步道走到天然入口(Natural Entrance),那兒有一座觀看蝙蝠出洞的看台(Bat Flight Amphitheater),今晚七點三十分我們就是要在此觀看蝙蝠出洞的奇觀。

Bat Flight Amphitheater
天然入口(Natural Entrance)就是蝙蝠出洞的洞口,由Bat Flight Amphitheater的前方沿著蜿蜒的小徑入洞,洞口有不少小鳥在盤旋,並築巢在洞口上端,初以為是蝙蝠,但仔細一看原來是燕子吧!

Natural entrance trail at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Looking up at the entrance
Natural Entrance Routes沿途盡是造型奇特的鐘乳石,小徑一路往下延伸,兩旁景觀也一路驚奇不已;

Natural Entrance Routes

Near the entrance,Natural entrance trail

Devil's Springs , Natural Entrance




Taken from Natural Entrance Routes

鯨魚嘴(Whales Mouth, Natural Entrance)

Looks like icicles, Natural Entrance

女巫的手指(Witch's Finger, Natural Entrance )

Green Lake Room, Natural Entrance

早期下洞木梯(Early stairs inside Carlsbad Cavern)
Natural Entrance Routes全長1.25哩(2.0公里),我們約走了一個半小時抵達Natural Entrance步道終點地下休息區,此處距地表已深入地下755呎(230公尺);

Rest Area & Lunchroom
休息區有廁所、販賣部,吃的、喝的都有,休息區旁有升降梯直通遊客中心,如有遊客行動不便或是不願徒步下地洞者可由遊客中心搭升降梯直下休息區,當然你就錯過了Natural Entrance Routes的天然奇觀,個人建議下地洞時走路欣賞Natural Entrance Routes的天然奇觀,回程時再搭升降梯回遊客中心。
King's Palace Tour(皇宮導覽行程)
Kings Palace Tour是付費導覽行程,成人每人8元美金,兒童4元美金,不算便宜;該導覽行程全程約一哩長,導覽時程約一小時,蠻輕鬆的一段行程。
我們走Natural Entrance Routes下到地洞底休息區後在休息區等候下午三點的導覽行程,三點一到導覽員集合參加Kings Palace Tour的遊客稍作解說後便帶領遊客循著Natural Entrance Routes往回走一段路再轉進一閘口正式開始King's Palace Tour的導覽行程。

looks like icicles, Big Room





Taken from King's Palace, Carlsbad Caverns

The Papoose Room, King's Palace~早期遊客從此處敲取鐘乳石帶回家當紀念品,造成極大毀損
整個King's Palace Tour導覽員沿途說明整個洞窟發展的歷史,講解最先發現本洞窟的16歲小牛仔Jim White的探險故事,以及他如何將此洞窟引薦給世人並教導世人珍惜保護此世界遺產。
The Big Room
此條1.25哩(2.0公里)的自導式步道和Natural Entrance Routes(天然入口路線)比起來相對平坦多了,它的起訖點都在地底休息區附近,此洞穴面積有八英畝多,是北美州空間最大的單一洞穴。






Taken from Big Room, Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Bashful Elephant, Big Room

Green Lake drip pool, Big Room

Veiled Statue Coulmn, Big Room

圖騰(Totem Pole, Big Room)

Rock of Ages in the Big Room

巨人大廳(Hall of Giants, Big Room)

太陽神殿(Temple of the Sun, Big Room)



有人說像燈飾(Chandelier),有人說像窗簾(Drapes),各取所需吧!(The Chandelier hangs from the ceiling in the Big Room of Carlsbad Caverns )

仙境(Fairyland, Big Room)

窗簾(Drapes,Big Room, Carlsbad Caverns Cave)

彩繪石窟(Painted Grotto, Big Room)

娃娃劇院(Dolls Theater, Big Room)

中國劇院(The Chinese Theater, Big Room)
我們花了將近兩個小時參觀完Big Room然後搭升降梯上到遊客中心,在遊客中心邊的餐飲部簡單用個餐點準備看今晚七點半的蝙蝠出洞解說。
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
看蝙蝠出洞(Bat Flight Program)
這是個夏天才有的活動,大概是五月中旬到十月中旬,觀賞地點是在Natural Entrance洞口的看台(Bat Flight Amphitheater),活動開始時間大約是在日落前一小時,我們參觀當天是傍晚七點半。
觀看蝙蝠出洞嚴格禁止拍照、錄影,並且禁聲,但在活動開始Park Ranger解說前可盡情拍攝錄影,當然這時你僅能拍攝出幾隻零星的蝙蝠而已。
活動開始先由Park Ranger作解說,約莫十幾分鐘後蝙蝠開始出洞,剛開始時僅見零零星星幾隻從地洞飛出在洞口盤旋後往外飛,慢慢的出洞的蝙蝠數量越來越多,多到看是已傾巢而出而卻又是源源不絕,相同的同一動作從地洞出來後作一盤旋隨及朝同一方向飛去,據Park Ranger解說是朝向一處有湖的地方飛去,因為蝙蝠需要去喝水和覓食,每隻蝙蝠每天需要體重一半的昆蟲量;我真想不透,四、五十萬隻的蝙蝠哪來那麼多的昆蟲供其食用?
從地洞飛出的蝙蝠密密麻麻的就像一條長龍般,本以為過個幾分鐘就沒了,錯了,我們足足看了約半個多小時天色全黑才走,而那條黑色長龍還繼續從洞口魚貫而出;據Park Ranger說估計洞裡有20~50萬隻蝙蝠,我真不敢想像這些蝙蝠懸掛在地洞上端是個什麼景象!

蝙蝠出洞(由於現場不准拍照,此照片是Carlsbad Caverns National Park Service在2005年提供的照片)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
繼續瀏覽:新墨西哥州之旅D3(2015.08.10)-- 瓜達洛普山國家公園 (Guadalupe Mountains National Park)
本日行車路線圖:
沒有留言:
張貼留言