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2018/06/29

2018美國跨州國家公園之旅D7 Cedar Breaks National Monument遊記(2018.06.07)

Cedar Breaks National Monument sign board

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承前文: 2018美國跨州國家公園之旅D6錫安國家公園The Narrows溯溪行(2018.06.06) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
第七天(2018.06.07、星期四)
今天我們行程是由錫安國家公園開車前往Bryce Canyon National Park,途中特地繞道位在Cedar City附近的Cedar Breaks National Monument進去參觀。
早上離開Springdale後沿UT-9 W西行轉UT-17I-15州際公路北行,I-15州際公路北行至里程40 mile(Exit 40)可下交流道往錫安國家公園的最西北角Kolob Canyon區,該地區前幾年去過,今天路過看路旁標示該區目前封閉中;車子續往北行至I-15里程57 mile (Exit 57)下交流道轉UT-130Cedar City後轉UT-14東南行,最後轉UT-148北行抵達Cedar Breaks National Monument
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Cedar Breaks National Monument 位在美國猶他(Utah)州的Cedar市附近,1933年成立為國家保護區;該保護區地貌和Bryce Canyon National Park很相似,是屬於天然的圓形劇場式的峽谷,綿延3哩(4.8公里),深度超過2000呎(610公尺)。峽谷的邊緣處海拔超過10000(3048公尺)
Cedar Breaks National Monument的侵蝕岩層類似Bryce Canyon國家公園,峽谷中最大特色是數以萬計的被稱為Hoodoos的岩石,只是規模小得多了,所以有“小Bryce”之稱,由於保護區海拔較高,每年的10月到次年的5月因下雪而關閉,僅在每年6月到10月開放,所以並不如附近的其他國家公園受遊客青睞,不過每年也有幾十萬遊客進入。
Cedar Breaks National Monument被侵蝕的峽谷中的岩石含有大量鐵和錳等的成分,呈現出鮮豔的色彩,印第安人稱之為“Circle of Painted Cliffs”(彩繪斷崖圈);氧化鐵呈現出供紅色,橙色和黃色,而氧化錳則呈現出紫色色調,這些被稱為Hoodoos的岩石比起布萊斯峽谷(Bryce Canyon)Hoodoos顏色要柔和、細膩多了。
該地區地形是由峽谷、尖塔式岩石、石牆和峭壁組合的地形,如此陡峭和混雜的地形雖然具有很大的美學價值,但實用價值不大,早期移居者稱此地為惡地形或破碎地形,並將此種破碎地形(breaks)與生長在此地的一種松樹juniper (當時誤稱為Cedar,也許是當時錯誤的認知吧)結合成現在這個Cedar Breaks名稱。
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我們在11:20抵達Cedar Breaks National Monument(網路中譯為錫達布雷克斯國家保護區),先到遊客中心取得一些資訊後我們計畫先走走附近的Ramparts Overlook Trail,走完該步道後再開車到北邊幾個景點參觀。
Ramparts Overlook Trailhead
Ramparts Overlook Trailhead



Ramparts Overlook Trailhead位於Cedar Breaks遊客中心停車場的西南端,海拔約10,370(3,161公尺);沿著小徑往上走沒多遠即抵達Cedar Breaks圓形劇場式峽谷的邊緣,海拔約10,404(3,171公尺)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (1)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (6)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (7)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (5)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (4)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (3)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (2)
Taken from Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (4)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (3)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (2)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (1)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks


然後沿著峽谷的邊緣往西南爬升,行約0.5哩抵達步道的最高點,海拔約10,495(3,199公尺),步道旁有一座大型蓄水槽;

Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (10)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (9)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (8)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks 


過了最高點步道開始下坡,沒多遠步道轉向北往下行,將抵達Spectra Point時步道旁有幾棵Bristlecone pines,這些生長在美國西南部的松樹其果有針刺,出現在這裡的Bristlecone pine有的樹齡已高達1600左右;而數年前到我到內華達州(Nevada)大盆地國家公園(Great Basin National Park)所見的Bristlecone pines樹齡更高達5000年以上。

Bristlecone Pine Tree at Spectra Point of the Rampart Trail (1)
Bristlecone Pine Tree at Spectra Point of the Rampart Trail



過了Bristlecone pines步道分岔,左岔續往下行約1.0哩可抵Ramparts Overlook,右岔直行往Spectra Point;我們今天計畫只走到Spectra Point就好,取右直行約0.1哩即抵達Spectra Point,此地海拔約10,245(3,123公尺),距登山口約1.0哩左右。
Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks 2
Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks 1
Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks
Taken from Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks (3)
Taken from Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks (2)
Taken from Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks (1)
Taken from Spectra Point, Cedar Breaks



Spectra Point展望極佳,可以環視整個Cedar Breaks的全貌;
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (7)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (6)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks (5)
Ramparts Overlook Trail, Cedar Breaks


Spectra Point停留一些時間後回頭循原路回到遊客中心停車場,此趟行程我們花了1小時40分鐘。回到停車場後我們於13:50上車沿UT-148 N北行,沿途參觀Cedar Breaks的幾個景點。
Sunset View Overlook
Sunset View Overlook (3)
Sunset View Overlook (2)
Sunset View Overlook (1)
Sunset View Overlook 



Chessmen Ridge Overlook
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (1)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (7)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (6)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (5)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (4)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (3)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook (2)
Chessmen Ridge Overlook 



North View Overlook
North View Overlook (1)
North View Overlook (5)
North View Overlook (4)
North View Overlook (3)
North View Overlook (2)
North View Overlook 



參觀完Cedar Breaks最後一個景點North View Overlook後我們準備開車前往Bryce Canyon National Park,由North View Overlook回頭改走UT-143公路離開Cedar Breaks 國家保護區,行車至PanguitchUS-89公路南行後左轉有名的UT-12公路(Scenic Byway 12)~~Red Canyon
Red Canyon,Utah (1)
Red Canyon,Utah



UT 12公路從西邊穿過Red Canyon抵達布萊斯峽谷國家公園(Bryce Canyon National Park),這是在Paunsaugunt高原一側環繞著暴露的橙紅色石灰岩相對較淺的山谷,公路邊的岩石就如同東邊的布萊斯峽谷國家公園(Bryce Canyon National Park)裡的岩石一樣被侵蝕成尖峰、圓柱和hoodoo狀,只是這裡的規模較小、顏色變化也較少,雖然該區主要公路交通流量也蠻大的,但大多數遊客都匆匆忙忙地趕往Bryce Canyon沒有停下來,而遠離主要公路的其他道路通常是很安靜、空無一人的。
Red Canyon,Utah (2)
Red Canyon,Utah (3)
Red Canyon,Utah (4)
Red Canyon,Utah (5)
Red Canyon,Utah (6)
Red Canyon,Utah (7)
Red Canyon,Utah



穿過Red Canyon後於Bryce Canyon右轉UT-63Bryce Canyon National Park南行,我們於下午三點四十分抵達Bryce Canyon National Park
今晚住宿Bryce View Lodge, Bryce Canyon, UT
本日行車約190(304公里)


2018/06/26

2018美國跨州國家公園之旅D6錫安國家公園The Narrows溯溪行(2018.06.06)

The Narrows, Zion National Park (67)
The Narrows, Zion National Park 

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第六天(2018.06.06、星期三)
今天主要行程是進去錫安國家公園有名的景點The Narrows溯溪,由於The Narrows溯溪步道是位在錫安國家公園內主要的景觀道路Zion Canyon Scenic Drive的最北端,此段景觀道路每年4月到10月不准通行一般車輛,遊客必須搭乘園方的免費遊園車(Shuttle)進入,該遊園車從遊客中心發車,中途停靠八個景點,遊客可隨時上下車;The Narrows溯溪要搭到最後一站(9)Temple of Sinawava開始起登,由於近年來錫安國家公園遊客增多,聽說如果開車太晚到遊客中心往往停車位已滿,就必須再把車子開到南入口之外的Springdale找停車位,相當的麻煩,所以我們當天在七點左右便趕到遊客中心,果不其然停車位已所剩無幾,停好車又排隊排了四十幾分鐘才搭上遊園車,抵達終點站Temple of Sinawava已經是近九點鐘了!
Visitor Center Shuttle stop 1
Visitor Center Shuttle stop 2
Visitor Center Shuttle stop 
Temple of Sinawava Shuttle stop
Temple of Sinawava Shuttle stop
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The Narrows是錫安國家公園錫安峽谷(Zion Canyon)最狹窄的一段, 座落在Virgin River的北支流和主要峽谷的上游,The Narrows是錫安國家公園和科羅拉多高原(Colorado Plateau)幾條重要健行步道中的一條。
The Narrows指的是從Temple of Sinawava 上行到 Big Springs總長3.6 (5.76公里)的一段以及另一段較長的由上游的Chamberlain's Ranch下行到Temple of Sinawava總長16 (25.6公里)的一段,一般遊客大多數是搭園區的shuttle bus到終點站Temple of Sinawava開始啟登,然後視個人的時間及體力選擇折返點回到Temple of Sinawava,是很有彈性的一段溯溪行程。
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此段溯溪行程並不難走,當然你要裝備齊全最好,譬如溯溪鞋、手杖等,但是沒有也沒關係,我看大多數的遊客頂多手拿一根手杖,腳穿一般布鞋或登山鞋便走完全程,我和兩個孫子也都僅穿登山鞋,小孫子多給他一根登山杖便走完全程,褲子濕了過沒多久就乾了,連換都不用換!
08:50 我們由Temple of Sinawava出發,溯溪之前要先走一段約1.0哩的河邊道路,沿著Virgin River河邊的Riverside Walk小徑北行,該步道在2011年首次來此公園時曾走過一小段。
Riverside Walk (1)
Riverside Walk (2)
Riverside Walk (4)
Riverside Walk
Yellow Columbine
Yellow Columbine



09:15 抵達Riverside Walk小徑終點,在此開始溯溪,但也不是全程走在溪水中,有河床路還是走河床路。
The mouth of the Narrows
The mouth of the Narrows
The mouth of the Narrows and the end of the Riverside Walk
The mouth of the Narrows and the end of the Riverside Walk
The Narrows, Zion National Park (3)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



09:25 光滑岩壁留下一條條水痕,這片岩壁蠻大的,過了這片岩壁河道顯然縮小許多,成群的遊客魚貫由兩面峭壁間的河道涉水而過;
The Narrows, Zion National Park (62)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (59)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (8)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (7)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (5)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (13)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



在右邊峭壁裂縫上幾株紅色的Columbine正盛開著,Columbine有多種顏色,藍色的Columbine (Blue Columbine)是科羅拉多州的州花。

Red Columbine (4)
Red Columbine (2)
Red Columbine (3)
Red Columbine



09:38 來到所謂的Mystery Canyon Falls ,這是一條細長的小瀑布,長約110(34公尺),水量很小,顯不出它的壯觀,此處距溯溪起點約0.3哩,距Temple of Sinawava1.3哩。
Mystery Canyon Falls,The Narrows, Zion National Park (5)
Mystery Canyon Falls,The Narrows, Zion National Park (2)
Mystery Canyon Falls,The Narrows, Zion National Park (1)
Mystery Canyon Falls,The Narrows, Zion National Park



10:08 抵達House Rock,此處距溯溪起點約1.0哩,距Temple of Sinawava2.0哩。
The Narrows, Zion National Park (15)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (16)
House Rock, The Narrows, Zion National Park
The Narrows, Zion National Park (17)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (39)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (35)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (29)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (20)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (21)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (18)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (22)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (24)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (26)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (28)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (30)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (33)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (32)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



11:10 抵達Virgin River 和 Orderville Canyon 河流分岔處,此處距溯溪起點約1.7哩,距Temple of Sinawava2.7哩;取左岔續沿Virgin River 上行。
Virgin River & Orderville Canyon junction 1
Virgin River & Orderville Canyon junction



The Narrows是錫安國家公園中最窄小細長的一部分,幾千呎高的岩壁底下,卻只有30多呎寬的河流。

The Narrows, Zion National Park (53)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (48)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (42)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (44)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (50)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (47)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



11:25 走到所謂“Floating Rock”處,在此休息吃點心,我們決定走到此處回頭,此處距溯溪起點約2.0哩,距Temple of Sinawava3.0哩。
Floating Rock (1)
Floating Rock
The Narrows, Zion National Park (46)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



11:35 回頭循原路往下游走,此時人潮比早上還多。
The Narrows, Zion National Park (56)
The Narrows, Zion National Park (60)
The Narrows, Zion National Park



13:05 回到溯溪起點、Riverside Walk小徑終點,沿著Riverside Walk往登山口回行。
13:30 返抵Riverside Walk Trailhead,也就是Temple of Sinawava;此趟共走了Riverside Walk Trail1.0哩、The Narrows溯溪約2.0哩,單程計3.0哩,來回共走了約6.0哩,花了4小時40分鐘。
今晚住在錫安國家公園南入口Springdale的一家旅館Pioneer Lodge,晚餐則在旅館對面的Meme's Café用餐(Mount Carmel Hwy, Springdale, UT 84767, USA)